Region guide

Cairngorms

“These hills hold astonishment for me.”

— Nan Shepherd, The Living Mountain

Highest Peak

Ben Macdui — 1,309 metres

National Park Area

4,528 km²

Munros

Highest Mountains

Five of the UK’s six highest

Highest Large Loch

Loch Etchachan — 927 metres above sea level

Lowest Recorded Temperature

Braemar — -27.2°C

About the region

Discover the Cairngorms

The Cairngorms are built on a scale rarely encountered elsewhere in Britain. Broad plateaux rise above deep glens, enormous corries cut into the mountain edges and long approaches place some summits many miles from the nearest road. It is less a collection of individual peaks than one great sweep of high ground.

Ben Macdui, Braeriach and Cairn Toul are among the highest mountains in the country, but height is only part of their character. Granite tors crown Ben Avon and Beinn Mheadhoin, the cliffs of Sgòr Gaoith fall sharply towards Loch Einich, and the Lairig Ghru cuts through the range as an ancient route between Speyside and Deeside.

Below the plateau, the landscape changes completely. Caledonian pinewoods surround lochs and rivers, providing routes through Rothiemurchus, Glenmore and Glen Feshie for walkers who have no desire to spend the day counting contour lines. Red squirrels, crested tits and capercaillie live among the trees, while ptarmigan and mountain hare occupy the higher ground.

Conditions can change remarkably quickly. A calm glen may sit beneath strong winds, cloud and lingering snow on the plateau. Come prepared, however, and the Cairngorms offer everything from quiet woodland paths to some of Britain’s longest and most memorable mountain days.

Regional signature

The Living Mountain

The 1940s

Written from experience

Nan Shepherd drew upon years spent walking, sleeping and exploring in the Cairngorms to write The Living Mountain, looking beyond summits to the water, wildlife and weather.

1977

Finally published

The manuscript remained unpublished for around 30 years. Its eventual appearance revealed a very different kind of mountain book, concerned with understanding rather than conquering the landscape.

A Lasting Influence

Walking into the mountain

Shepherd’s work changed how generations of readers viewed the Cairngorms. Her portrait now appears on the Royal Bank of Scotland £5 note.

When to visit

Spring

March – May

Longer days return, but snow, ice and cornices can remain across the plateau. Lower woodland and lochside routes usually become accessible much earlier.

Best for: Pinewoods, quieter hill days

Summer

June – August

Long daylight makes remote summits and major traverses possible. Even in summer, high winds, cold rain and poor visibility can arrive with little warning.

Best for: Long routes, remote Munros

Autumn

September – November

The pinewoods and glens take on rich colour while the hills become noticeably quieter. Shortening days and the first significant snow require careful planning.

Best for: Photography, woodland walks

Winter

December – February

The plateau becomes a serious Arctic-like environment with deep snow, ice, cornices and frequent whiteouts. Full winter skills and equipment are essential.

Best for: Experienced winter mountaineers